Like father, like son. Last Friday, we trekked down to the corner of Canal and Ludlow to try new bistroeatery Les Enfants Terribles (previewed in plywood form in this space in June and announced as open by Ian at ebway.org last week). We arrived on the early side for a night on the town. Wise move. By 9pm, the small space was jammed to the gills with hipsters, flipsters, and all breeds in between, crowding the bar and the packed-in tables. The vibe was alive. The food, however, was moribund. We didn't think it possible to butcher a goat cheese salad, but if you're seeking LET's secret, give the goat cheese the consistency of tuna salad and serve it up. The rest of the meal—bistro fare filtered through Africa—felt similarly lacking in quality ingredients. We've always disliked upper Ludlow Street's Le Pere Pinard for the same reason, and lo and behold, the two places share an owner. "At least in a world of uncertainty," Ken said after the meal, "we can say for a fact that we'll never be back here."
Oh, that's depressing. I'd had, not high hopes, but reasonable ones that you'd be able to get some decent French Colonial food there. I think the thing is that French people, although they've inherited one of the world's great cuisines, have no taste for anything non-French. I've met many, many French people who can't deal with chili peppers, exotic spices, and unusual ingredients. They do, however, seem to like sushi—probably because it's often bland enough for them.
Come on now, everybody: Aren't French taste buds overrated?
Let them eat cake! Maybe they need some time to get they shit together? Crappy painting on the roll down window gates btw.
Posted by: sy Klopps at October 22, 2003 10:56 AMI ate there last week and I thought the food was great. Only problem was the B.O of the french waiters.
Posted by: lesvet at October 22, 2003 11:15 AMThe French taste bud is somewhat aesthetically clumsy when it comes to food texture. Let them eat brie! Or, at least, escargots.
Posted by: Ron Mwangaguhunga at October 28, 2003 03:07 PMThank God for a place that has good food, a great vibe and happy people inside. The food is fresh, inventive and tasty. All this comment on French cuisine seems to be steeped in ignorance and a very limited palate. Anyone who reduces the french to brie and escargot obviously has never tasted real french cuisine.
As for Le Pere Pinard- there's a reason it is always busy. Because the food is good! It would be better if people in search of a quiet place stay in the neighborhood rather than venture to popular places. Or better still- stay home and cook!
i have a friend who checked her 1950s vintage blonde mink that was a gift from her aunt (monogrammed with her initials, in perfect, sentimental condition) at les enfants terrible and got it back slashed . . . the restaurant's management denies any wrong doing, and has refused to make restitution, snidely commenting, "we have plenty of people who wear fur here." hmmmm, perhaps not the coat check-er. so she's filed a police report. plus the food, like pere pinard, is average at best.
Posted by: red at February 29, 2004 05:54 PMCan't wait to try this place... at least there seem to be happy people at the restaurant, because they are definitely NOT in abundance among the reviewers on this particular website. What a bunch of Amerisnobs...
Posted by: deborah at April 28, 2004 01:45 PM