Butter Review

April 28, 2002 Got back on the hipster track last night with a visit to Butter, the new eatery in the old Belgo space on Lafayette by Astor Place. Great trepidation considering it was plugged by the insufferable Daily Candy on Friday (opening day)... Theme of the restaurant: Flavored butter. Theme rating: D+... Giant illuminated birch tree photograph at least 20 feet high by 30 feet wide dominates the tubular room. Mesmerizing... 50% of tables empty despite impossibility of booking a reservation. Obvious reason: kitchen and staff nowhere near ready to handle full capacity... Other 50% of tables: women who sort of look like models... Service rating: D-. Service highlights: After appetizer, entire table cleared. Server: "Would you like to see the dessert menu?"... After actually eating dessert (later in the meal), waiter picks up sugar container and dumps into remains of our fromage blanc... Downstairs bar space reminscent of the late lamented Meatpacking district resto-club Oriont, which burned down approximately three days after I visited it in November '99. (No surprise there -- same owners as Butter.)